Hose Bibb: Worn Out Screw - Plumbing - DIY Home Improvement ...

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Today, 11:20 AM	? #2
BIGRED ? Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 458	Have you tried just snugging up the packing gland nut that is just below the handle?
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Today, 11:22 AM	? #3
Member ? Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Hartfield VA Posts: 2,621	Unscrew the whole thing and toss it in the trash, go buy a new one for a 100% sure way to fix it.
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Today, 11:25 AM	? #4
BIGRED ? Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 458	Yes this a soldered hose bib, but to install one safely you have to remove the shaft, handle, gland nut, and valve washer anyway, so why not just take this picture with you to Menards, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply and get all new guts to put in your perfectly good valve body. No soldering, and all new parts.
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Today, 11:49 AM	? #5
Civil Engineer ? Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Boston Posts: 2,345	Maybe I am hallucinating, but don't I see a hex on the valve where it attaches to the (copper?) pipe leaving the wall? If so, you just put a wrench on it and take the whole thing off. I have lots of hose bibs around my house, they are all threaded, look a lot like yours.
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Today, 11:54 AM	? #6
Member ? Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Hartfield VA Posts: 2,621	I can see a hex in both pictures. A new valve would cost less then all the parts needed to fix it. Just clean off the paint right behind the hex to see if you can see threads.
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Today, 12:13 PM	? #7
Newbie ? Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 10	Thx joecaption, Grampa Bud and Daniel. It will be perfect if I can replace the whole bib. I tried to unscrew the whole bib with 2 wrenches, but it wasn't turned a bit. Since I guess it is soldered, I didn't put a lot of brutal force to turn it. I will do this. From joecaption, "Just clean off the paint right behind the hex to see if you can see threads." I hope it is threaded and I can replace it with a nice one.
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Today, 12:27 PM	? #8
Member ? Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 300	If you insist in repairing it, grind off the head with a dremel, remove handle, grab what is left of screw with vice grips and turn. If that does not work you will have to drill it out and re-tap it. If it is threaded (hard to see with all that paint) two pipe wrenches will have it off in 30 seconds. If it is sweated turn off the water open the valve remove with torch, hold hot valve with channel lock pliers to pull off pipe. removal should take about 1 minute Last edited by plumberinlaw; Today at 12:29 PM.
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Today, 12:47 PM	? #9
Civil Engineer ? Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Boston Posts: 2,345	Take off the paint as recommended, then you can see if it is threaded (I think I can see the threads even in the photo, but cannot be sure). If it is threaded, you need two people and two pipe wrenches to avoid damaging the pipe. Put one pipe wrench on the pipe just after the hex, and one pipe wrench on the hex. The paint may have frozen the valve on, you can break it free with a two foot length of pipe over the pipe wrench (I have a couple of persuaders I keep around for just this sort of problem). Make sure the pipe wrench holding the pipe in place is tight and facing the correct direction, else you will destroy the pipe and have a bigger headache. Assuming it is threaded of course.
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Today, 12:54 PM	? #10
Member ? Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Hartfield VA Posts: 2,621	If you find it's steel pipe then it also could be stuck because of contact with the bronze valve. I'd apply some heat on the valve before I tryed using a cheater bar. One trick I've used is apply heat, dump cold water on it then apply heat again. The expantion and contraction of the valve will break the corroision bond.
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Today, 01:38 PM	? #11
retired elect/hvac/plumb ? Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: south east of omaha Posts: 1,623	Quote: Yes this a soldered hose bib, but to install one safely you have to remove the shaft, handle, gland nut, and valve washer anyway, so why not just take this picture with you to Menards, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply and get all new guts to put in your perfectly good valve body. No soldering, and all new parts. Well disregard my previous post,that was a sweated joint. Last edited by plummen; Today at 02:00 PM.
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